We simply love Italy. Naples is a vibrant, inimitable city. Colors, smells, voices and charming quirks such as the laundry suspended to dry on the balconies make the streets of this harbor city something special. Jerusalem and Naples have many things in common, including the atmosphere in their respective hectic markets and the unpolished mentality of the people.

At the hotel we ran into famed Indian conductor Zubin Mehta. I greeted him in Hebrew. Since 1969, Mehta has served as head of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra. We love attending his concerts. Mehta was in Naples to conduct Beethoven’s Fidelio at the San Carlo Opera House. This renowned maestro took a few minutes for us, and we chatted about Israel, politics and Naples.

The Synagogue of Naples was not easy to find despite the assistance of Google Maps. It has existed since 1864, and is hidden deep in the Chiaia district. Two soldiers guarded the entrance as we arrived. We were informed that visitors must come back in the evening. But, as we turn to walk away, we see three young...