Sometimes you only realize you’re living in crazy times when the familiar airport has changed its face so much that it’s now a Bedouin taxi, a desert road and a border crossing in the Sinai. While elsewhere boarding gates and duty-free shops await, the journey here begins with the wail of sirens, bunkers, possible floods and the quiet question: Will I even arrive in time? Anyone who wants to leave Israel today doesn’t simply book a flight. He plans an expedition. Between rocket alerts, desert drives and improvised waiting rooms, a new reality of travel is emerging. It’s marked by little comfort, but offers history instead. It’s so absurd you couldn’t make it up. Somewhere between Eilat and Taba it becomes clear: This is no ordinary flight. This is an exodus.
In Israel, civilian air traffic has come to a virtual standstill during the Iran war. Anyone who wanted to leave the country had two options: via Jordan or via Egypt. I chose Taba. By then the Jordanian route was no longer...
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